A Day at Parque Nacional Los Glaciares: Exploring Patagonia’s Ancient Giants.

As a precursor, this day trip is definitely not the most budget friendly one in the world, but it absolutely is worth doing if you can afford it. The total cost will come to about £100 (in 2023), but it really is one of the most resplendent natural wonders that I have ever seen, and I cannot recommend it enough. It is a great reminder of how powerful and beautiful nature is.

At the time of writing, £1 = 0.002 ARS = $1.26 US

(but bare in mind the blue dollar!)

I love the sediment striations. Centuries old layers of compact dirt!

Nestled in the heart of Patagonia, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares stands as a testament to nature’s grandeur. This UNESCO World Heritage site in Argentina is an expanse of huge glaciers, jagged peaks, and pristine lakes. It is truly a haven for adventure seekers, geography enthusiasts, and nature lovers alike.

There are many ways to experience Parque Nacional Los Glaciers, and many different experiences that you can do whilst there. In this post I’ll mention some of what you can do, but will focus mostly on what I personally did whilst there.

The park is renowned for its stunning landscapes, dominated by the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. I can barely begin to describe the scale. There is no photo that will do justice just how towering this National Park is. Tourist boats look like pin-heads against the glacial walls, and humans are tiny dots on their exploration days. Also, on a good day, the whole place sparkles.

The glacier in the distance: a huge snaking river of ice.

No visit to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is complete without witnessing the awe-inspiring Perito Moreno Glacier. This colossal ice formation is a dynamic spectacle, constantly advancing and calving into Lake Argentino. There are glaciers all over Patagonia, however this one is truly immense, and incredibly (considering Climate Change), is in a state of equilibrium. This means that it grows as much as it breaks off.

This is going to be one of the few posts where I actually recommend that you get a tour. Although it is completely feasible to do this trip on your own, with the help of Google, it is so much easier to do it with a tour-guide who can show you the best bits. I also rarely hire a car as it is an extra expense that I try not to have when I am backpacking for who-knows-how-long. Sometimes a car (or a moped!) is great, especially if you are setting off into the deep wilderness, but so much of Patagonia is set up for tourists that I really don’t think you’ll need one to see the best of the tourist hotspots.

So why a tour? Well, to get from El Calafate, which is the nearest town (and one you really should visit whilst you are in Argentine Patagonia), to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is around £60 return on the bus. This includes literally nothing else. If you do want to try and figure it out yourself there are sites like BusBud, and Chalten Travel that will offer you price guidance and pre-booked tickets. El Calafate is a hum for hikers, and so there are many reliable bus connections that can take you most places. 

As I was saying, I’d recommend a tour. It doesn’t mean that you have failed as a planner, it just means you’re willing to accept help. Also it is likely that you will only spend one day at the National Park, and so you will want to see as much as you can. The glaciers are also hugely interesting entities, and the tour guides have so much knowledge that you will get a geography lesson thrown in for the price. I studied glaciers at A-Level Geography, and can honestly say that this trip solidified my love of these icy phenomenons, and gave me an entirely new appreciation for them.

I wasn’t feeling one-hundred percent well when I went to the park, two days before I had hiked The Fitz Roy, and had gotten a horrendous sickness bug that kept me up all night, and so I was still on the recovery. I had a flight booked for the next morning after I had booked my tour, to go to Ushuaia, and so there was no altering plans for me. What I did do was change from a day of jam-packed glacier trekking, to a sedate lap of the park with a nice boat trip included.

I booked my trip through Viator, which is a company that I use globally. They are reliable, and mostly very good quality trips. For this particular occasion, I chose this trip: “Visit to the Perito Moreno Glacier with Navigation,” which for £68 including transport to the Park from El Calafate, a tour-guide, and a boat trip with an English speaker, was a great deal. I did have to pay extra for Park entry, but that was only 2520 ARS, or around £5.50.

Park entry ticket.

I really love boats, and so having that little add on was a no brainer. It meant getting up close and personal with one of nature’s true giants. Something I was not prepared for was the noise of the glacier. As icebergs cracked off it, it genuinely sounded like thunder, and with each drop in the sea there was a huge wave. To be so close is completely exhilarating. 

To fully appreciate the marvels of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, a bit of glacial geography goes a long way – your guide will explain all you need to you, but here’s a little bit to whet your appetite. Glaciers are slow-moving masses of ice formed when snow accumulates and compacts over time. As these ice masses flow, they shape the landscapes, carving out valleys and leaving behind the breathtaking terrain we witness in Patagonia.

Furthermore Parque Nacional Los Glaciares is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts. Keep an eye out for the elusive puma, Andean condors soaring overhead, and the comical antics of the Magellanic woodpecker. I was lucky enough to have one of these woodpeckers display to me at the Resto (cafe) that is onsite. The park’s diverse ecosystems support a rich array of fauna, adding an extra layer of magic to your adventure.

An E-bird photo of the Magellanic Woodpecker.
My photo of the woodpecker … ahahah!

Regardless of how you get to the park, the Perito Moreno Glacier is most commonly observed from the boardwalk, often referred to as “the viewpoint.” Whether you arrive by taxi, bus, tour, or self-drive, this expansive 4-kilometre-long (2.5 miles) boardwalk serves as the ultimate destination for witnessing the majestic Perito Moreno. Even glacier trekking tours include a stop at this comprehensive boardwalk before returning to El Calafate. It’s not just a single viewing platform but an extensive stretch, featuring multiple platforms that provide diverse angles for admiring the glacier, flora, and oftentimes fauna.

An iceberg. RAW photo, they’re blue due to the minerals!

Beyond its natural wonders, Parque Nacional Los Glaciares holds cultural significance. Learn about the indigenous Tehuelche people, who once roamed these lands, and discover the stories woven into the fabric of Patagonian history. Local guides often share tales of explorers and adventurers who braved the wild landscapes.

Timing is important when planning a visit to Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. The summer months, from November to March, offer more accessible trekking routes and pleasant weather. However, visiting during the shoulder seasons, particularly in the autumn when the landscapes are ablaze with autumnal hues, provides a unique and less crowded experience.

All in all, I hope that this guide helps you understand better the how and why of a day at this incredible National Park. If you find yourself in Patagonia with a day spare, you absolutely should visit. Not only is it stunning, it’s a very safe activity for a solo female traveller.

As always, sending a hug,

Rhianna ❤

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