This feels like a blog post that needed writing, but is very specific to pretty much one hostel, and one little island. It was mildly confusing doing this trip, and so I thought I’d explain it for those who are heading to Cartagena, and want to see the Rosario islands on a backpacker budget.
Adverts for “paradise islands” can feel inaccessible and exclusive, and not suitable for a backpacker budget. However an hour from the bustling tourist city of Cartagena lies an archipelago of islands, in a marine conservation area (though the actual conservation side of this I am dubious of), which are accessible to backpackers due to the fact there is a hostel there. For roughly £10 a night on Hostel World, Secreto Hostel is a bargain. And if you find yourself in need of a beach break after the hustle of Cartagena, Isla Grande is the perfect place to get horizontal on a pretty beach for a few days.
To get there:
If you message Secreto hostel they will advise you on how to get there. They’ll probably tell you to meet ‘Mary Cartagena,’ which is confusingly a travel company, at 08:30. If you do head to the port you’ll struggle to get lost as people will have signs with the various companies on. Once you find Mary Cartagena (they’ll probably find you! Aha), you’ll fill out a form and be guided from one person to another until you’re on the boat to the island.
The likelihood that the early boat is actually at 08:30 is slim, but take some water and stick around, and you will eventually be put on a speed boat, (potentially Peggy Paola – the fastest boat in Colombia.) to Secreto.
One of the accommodation houses. How cute?
The hostel itself is within a collection of colourful, colonial style houses, where the bunk beds seem to be on the top floors, either on the mezzanine, or the room with a balcony. The private rooms are on the second floor. Each of the houses’ has a magnificent outdoor/indoor terrace area with (what I’d consider) North African tiles, a hammock, a day bed, and wooden benches and chairs on an outside veranda.
There is pretty much no glass in the entirety of the hostel. All of the windows are ornate metal structures, or slatted wooden shutters, so the air is always free flowing; perfect on sunny days, less so on stormy ones when there is little to keep the damp air, or even the rain, out. Also on this note, all beds come with a mosquito net, but it is still necessary to take repellant as the mosquitos were rife: all day, all night. We were there the first week of May, and I’ve no idea if they’re more prevalent then, or whether they’re a common problem all year round.
In the outside area, there is a private beach (controversial) which has a few deck beds, and a few chairs, with parasols. It’s a lovely place to spend some down time. However, the actual sea in that particular beach has a base of dead coral so it’s a bit stabby on one’s feet as you get in. Nonetheless it’s beautiful, and really does feel like a secret.
There are two pools, one kind of plunge pool, one larger one with a fun slide, the pools are close to the bar which is open all day until 10pm, where then the beach bar is open. There are a good collection of drinks to order (coconut lemonade is sublime and COP$12000): beer is around COP$12000, and cocktails COP$30000. There is also a water refill station where you can fill your own bottles. They don’t sell plastic water bottles.
The staff are sooo friendly, funny, and eager to help you with your Spanish, or to learn new bits of English. If you go to the beach bonfires they’ll probably rope you in to a little bit of dancing. Salsa or Meringue being the favourites of Colombia!
The restaurant is an open space, with stained glass windows, where the menu is quite broad, but I’d argue, not that authentic Colombian. It seems tailored to tourist tastes, and to be fair, it is delicious. Meals average about COP$30000, some more expensive, and a few of the starters are less expensive. Generally it’s great quality, fresh, well prepared, and super tasty. There’s also an okay range of veggie meals. Meal times are quite strict, and as there is nowhere really to buy food, you sort of have to just go when you can, and potentially not when you’re hungry.
As for the actual island, there are many beaches within a 40min walk, which are portrayed on a large map at the hostel’s reception. It’s difficult to get lost, but Maps.Me will be your friend. There is a small town, where local people have some small shops to buy snacks if you fancy. Generally though, the island is basically hotels, beaches, and the sea.
And speaking of the sea, for US$10 you can do a host of activities at the hostel, which I’d really recommend. The snorkelling is fantastic, you can even see a sunken plane which is rumoured to be Pablo Escobars. There is a lovely protected reef area, which has an abundant range of pretty fish, and as it’s guided snorkelling you should feel pretty safe in Colombia’s unpredictable currents. You can also hire a kayak for the same price, and explore some of the coves.
Isla Grande, and Secreto hostel is a fantastic way to spend a few days away from the hustle of Cartagena, and it can be visited on a budget. I’d recommend spending 2/3 days there, so that you have time to actually get there, do something sea based, and spend time on the beach.
To get from the island and back to Cartagena you just need to tell reception, and they’ll tell you what time to wait for Peggy Paola (or whichever boat), so that you can get back to the city. The ride back was the fastest I’ve ever been on a boat ever. When the guy tells you to pop on your life jacket, just do it, you’re about to break the world record for boat speed on the white-knuckle ride.
Enjoy! Get gone 🙂
Lots of love as always,
Rhianna x
Rhianna's World 